Let the tourists flock to Santorini or Mykonos, and follow in-the-know locals to this region of the northeastern Peloponnese coast.
Summer brainteaser for the world travelers and jet-setters: Where can
one go on the Mediterranean that isn't discotheque central or overrun by
tourists and ubiquitous luxury brands, but still has some rustic
character, excellent swimming beaches with white sand, with ample
culture nearby and world-class food? Yes, such a place does exist.
 |
[post_ads]"It's the best-kept secret," said Sven Van den Broeck, the general manager of Amanzoe,
an elite resort that opened in 2012 on a hilltop overlooking Porto
Heli. But it may not be under the radar for long. Van den Broeck says
tourism is up this year. Amanzoe's nightly rates start in the four
figures, and they are almost at full occupancy in July and August, he
said. Villas in Porto Heli, which often come complete with a private
chef, can go for upwards of 25,000 euros a week.
And
it’s clear why in-the-know discerning globetrotters want to come to
Porto Heli—this is a part of the world that feels like a very laid-back
version of the Amalfi Coast, before all the American exchange students
and global nouveau riche discovered Positano. (There are also major
archeological sites, like Halieis, nearby that could keep history buffs
occupied for days.)
 |
| Amanzoe, which is set on a hilltop overlooking the sea, was inspired by classical Greek architecture |
But to really understand the modern affluence of the area, do it by boat. That’s when you'll see why Vanity Fair called
Porto Heli the Southampton of Greece (and that was before Aman, the
most exclusive hotel chain in the world, opened). There are palatial,
sprawling estates costing tens of millions of euros. In fact, a few
years ago, the Financial Times reported a sale in the Porto Heli area of a 40 million-euro home that was bought by a Greek shipowner and his Russian wife.
"There
is no other place in Greece with this concentration of wealth," said
Katerina Katopis, who runs marketing for Dolphin Capital, the
Athens-based investment firm that owns Amanzoe and the Porto Heli-based Nikki Beach, a hip, sleek hotel that draws a younger crowd looking for more of a nightlife scene.
[post_ads_2]
One
afternoon, while sailing through the coves, we spotted the gigantic
sailboat of former king of Greece, Constantine II—he has a home in the
area—who'd docked his kaiki, the Greek term for a traditional
wooden vessel, in one of the best coves for swimming in Porto Heli.
That's not the only royalty in the region. The heir to the Dutch throne,
Prince Willem-Alexander, was reported to have bought a 4.5 million-euro villa close to Porto Heli.
It's
clear why the elites of the country and prestigious hotels like Aman
have clustered on this stretch of coastline, as opposed to, say, Mykonos
or Santorini, which are far more touristy.
"You come to this area
because there are no tourists with backpacks island-hopping here. Young
families come here to connect, relax, and enjoy themselves. When you
cross over into Porto Heli, you are in peace," says Laoura Lalaouni, who
now works with her family's famed jewelry company, Lalaounis. Lalaounis
and her husband, John Dragnis, run Golden Yachts, a yachting group,
which provides chartering services through Atalanta Golden Yachts.
 |
| Amanzoe is surrounded by olive groves. |
[post_ads]Porto Heli's constellation of inlets means the water is both calmer and
warmer than off some of the Cycladic islands—it's not as buffeted by the
Aegean winds. Boating is a major aspect of the charm of the area, and
many Greek families take to the water on a regular basis to explore the
many gulfs in the region. Locals say swimming in Mykonos in May would be
too cold, while Porto Heli is rather temperate. And unlike some
stretches of, say, the Italian coastline, there isn't that sensation of
being packed in like sardines onto one patch of a rocky beach. What
makes Porto Heli unique, and perhaps singular, is the combination of
high-end properties, like Amanzoe and Nikki Beach; scattered mid-range
beach hotels; and villa rentals. Though bustling in the high season,
Porto Heli is still small enough limited in its development to retain
rustic, down-home feel. Many other luxury Mediterranean destinations
have been overrun by brand-name shops. To that end, there are no chain
stores in town, nor even in Spetses, a tony, tourist-friendly island a
15-minute boat ride away. While there is certainly a moneyed crowd, it's
hard to envision, say, a Gucci, Fendi, or even an outpost of Nobu
opening up any time soon.Keep in mind that Porto Heli got its first—and
very good—stand-alone sushi restaurant, Hippocampus, just last year.
Many rolls are under nine euros.
You come to Porto
Heli more for restaurants like Salt & Pepper, where most of the
customers don't speak English. Don’t be fooled by the humble exterior: a
Zagat-guide worthy meal, including a whole fresh sea bream, can be had
for 40 euros. That would buy you one-and-a-half cocktails in the Cote
d'Azur or a bowl of linguini vongole in many parts of the Amalfi Coast.
Porto
Heli, situated in the rich agricultural region of Argolida, is a foodie
paradise and locavore's dream. It's virtually impossible to have a bad
meal. Much of the wine, cheese, fish, honey, olives, and olive oil comes
from the surrounding region.
In many ways, Porto Heli feels like a time warp
to western Mediterranean paradises in, say, the 1970s. To be sure,
though, it's no longer just a sleepy fishing village. A new Porto Heli
marina facility is set to open soon and will accommodate up to 149
yachts. The project is financed by Ermionida Marinas S.A., a sister
company of private equity firm Tethys UK. "The location is a popular
cruising ground for Greek and foreign yachts," Andreas Mavrakis, a
director Tethys UK, told Superyacht Business.
Mavrakis also noted that there has been an upward trend in the last
decade of yachting in the Eastern Mediterranean. And Porto Heli is very
much part of that circuit.
In fact, when these yachts roll in, they can pull
up practically to the front of the Nikki Beach Hotel, which is known for
legendary parties. The scene on some summer days can look like a
boating convention.
Naturally, there are
comparisons drawn between Porto Heli and St. Tropez. Could it be the
next great, chic Riviera town? Or is it already in its own very
under-the-radar way?
"The area will grow and
become more popular, but it won't lose its charm and will always be
down-to-earth, so it [Porto Heli] may not be St. Tropez," said Van den
Broeck one evening, overlooking the sweeping verdant vistas of the
region.
More:
- No, Barack Obama Did Not Wear the Same Tux for 8 Years
- Who Was That Meddlesome Priest Comey Mentioned, Anyway?
- Washington D.C. Is Gripped by Comey Fever
