dearJulius.com

$hide=post

Hawaii: Exploring the sea cliffs and sad stories of Molokai

In this Feb. 6, 2016 photo, flowers grow around an abandoned structure that was once part of al leper colony in Molokai in Kalaupapa, Hawaii. A visit to the island of Molokai offers a window on a unique and tragic chapter of Hawaiian history. For about a century beginning in 1866, some 8,000 individuals afflicted with leprosy were quarantined to live out their lives on the remote Kalaupapa Peninsula. Their stories are told at Kalaupapa National Historical Park.

By MARCO GARCIA | AP
MOLOKAI, Hawaii


A visit to the island of Molokai offers a window on a unique and tragic chapter of Hawaiian history. For about a century beginning in 1866, some 8,000 individuals afflicted with leprosy were quarantined to live out their lives on the remote Kalaupapa Peninsula on Molokai's northern shores. Their stories are told at Kalaupapa National Historical Park.

About 100 people still live in the community, mostly government workers along with a few patients who chose to stay after the quarantine policy officially ended in 1969. Unless you're invited by a resident, you can only visit the park on a guided tour with a permit.

There are several options for getting there. My wife Yukako and I booked a package with Makani Kai Charter Tours that included a flight from Honolulu to the main airport at Molokai, a bus tour of the park plus lunch, and a return flight from a tiny open-air airport inside the park.

We also planned a hike down Kalaupapa's steep sea cliffs before our park tour. We headed to the trailhead from Molokai's mountaintop airport, sharing a 15-minute taxi ride with two people who'd been on our flight. Our fellow passengers were heading to the cliffs for mule rides. We were told to start ahead of the mules as the trail narrows in some spots and the mules make it tougher to navigate. (We planned our flight home from the park airport so we wouldn't have to hike back up.)

At 1,664 feet up, the mountaintop offered an incredible view of the Kalaupapa Peninsula — though it would have been even more spectacular if there hadn't been storm clouds and vog (what locals call volcanic smog).

As we began the roughly 3-mile hike, we were immersed in a loud chorus of tropical birds. We also caught a few glimpses of the ocean rumbling below at spots where the thick foliage thinned out. As we made our way down, I spotted huge spider webs above in the trees and Yukako found tiny flowers and moss-covered rocks. Colorful plants abounded along with guava, noni and Brazilian pepper trees heavy with red bundles of peppercorns. Farther along, a wild goat ignored us while quietly munching on the noni fruit, also known as Indian mulberry.

The uneven concrete and boulder steps began to jolt our knees so we took a break every few switchbacks. Needless to say, there's no cell service here, and hikers must bring their own snacks and water. As mules use the trail daily, mule droppings are found at every turn. That aside, the hike was peaceful with hardly anyone else on the trail.

Storm clouds broke an hour into our hike. The rain was brief but heavy, turning the trail into a slippery mud bath. Footholds filled with water and water spilled in streams off the concrete steps. We'd packed raincoats but got soaked to the bone anyway. Yukako took a small stumble and I had a few close calls, ending up with muddy hands from catching myself on the rocks. We tried to dry ourselves off but with no sun and a strong breeze, we were chilled for the rest of the hike.

About three-fourths of the way down, the mules caught up with us, passing us on a wide switchback.

Near the bottom, the trail opened up to a view of the stormy Pacific. Rough seas slammed onto shores lined with boulders, palm trees and ironwood trees. The hike took about two hours total, but would have gone faster if the rain hadn't slowed us down.

We met our tour near the beachside mule corral, joining a few other hikers, a group of retirees and the mule riders who'd passed us, including our fellow taxi passengers, who looked just as wet and worn as we did. An old yellow school bus transported us to the national park.

We visited structures built in the late 1800s by St. Damien, the Belgian priest who devoted himself to the colony and was eventually canonized, and also saw the gravesite of St. Marianne, the nun who cared for female patients of the colony and who also was made a saint. Our guide pointed out an ancient Hawaiian altar called a heiau, and we visited two turn-of-the-20th century churches still in use. Some of St. Damien's remains are interred at St. Philomena Church. Along the way there were deer, wild pigs and dozens of feral but friendly cats who were accustomed to being fed by the bus driver.

We picnicked on a blustery field overlooking the peninsula's cold, rough waters before being taken to the airport for our flight out. It was sobering to consider that ships once anchored here to unload passengers who would never leave.

In this Feb. 6, 2016 photo, a wild goat appears along the trail leading to Molokai's Kalaupapa Peninsula near Kalaupapa, Hawaii.

In this Feb. 6, 2016 photo, hikers overlook a bluff on the Kalaupapa Peninsula in Kalawao, Hawaii. A visit to the island of Molokai offers a window on a unique and tragic chapter of Hawaiian history. For about a century beginning in 1866, some 8,000 individuals afflicted with leprosy were quarantined to live out their lives on the remote Kalaupapa Peninsula on Molokai’s northern shores. Their stories are told at Kalaupapa National Historical Park.

This Feb. 6, 2016 photo shows a view of the trail leading to Molokai's Kalaupapa Peninsula in Kualapuu, Hawaii.

In this Feb. 6, 2016 photo, a hiker makes her way down a trail leading towards the Molokai's Kalaupapa Peninsula near Kualapuu, Hawaii.
___

If You Go...

KALAUPAPA NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK: http://www.nps.gov/kala/index.htm . Visits to the park by the general public are only available by guided tour with permits.

MAKANI KAI AIR: Tour packages for Kaluapapa, with options including flights, hikes, mule rides: https://makanikaiair.com/damien.php

COMMENTS



|Featured Content_$type=three$c=3$l=0$m=0$s=hide$rm=0


Made with in NYC
Name

Abu Dhabi,2,Adventure,31,Adventure Travel,650,Advice,73,Africa,28,Air Travel,153,Alabama,5,Alaska,23,Alberta,2,America,76,Amsterdam,3,Anguilla,4,Antarctica,8,Antigua,4,Argentina,16,Arizona,21,Arkansas,2,Asia Travel,46,Athens,3,Austin,8,Australia,98,Austria,16,Azerbaijan,1,Bahamas,15,Bangladesh,8,Beach Travel,59,Belarus,1,Belgium,11,Belize,15,Bermuda,7,Bhutan,10,Blue Lagoon,2,Boatswana,2,Bolivia,4,Botswana,3,Brazil,45,Brunei,1,Budget Travel,98,California,117,Cambodia,4,Canada,85,Caribbean,49,Caribbean & Mexico,5,Chicago,10,Chile,8,China,23,Christmas Travel,17,Clothes,1,Coliseum,1,Colombia,19,Colorado,37,Columbia,3,Connecticut,5,Corporate Travel,2,Costa Rica,13,Country Travel,251,Croatia,17,Cruiser Travel,17,Cuba,18,Cultural Travel,64,Cyprus,1,Czech Republic,6,D.C.,2,Delaware,1,Denmark,14,Desert Travel,1,Dubai,15,East Africa,4,Easter Island,1,Easter Travel,1,Eco Travel,18,Ecuador,9,Egypt,5,Emirates,1,England,13,Estonia,2,Eswatini,1,Ethiopia,2,Europe,113,Fall Travel,45,Family Travel,132,Faroe Island,1,Father's Day Travel,1,Featured,31,Features,410,Festival Travel,27,Fiji,8,Finland,16,Florida,72,Food,8,Food and Drink,4,France,45,Free Travel,3,French,6,French Polynesia,6,Galapagos,3,Georgia,14,Germany,19,Ghana,2,Greece,38,Greenland,2,Guatemala,2,Halloween Travel,9,Hawaii,57,Hayden Panettiere,1,Hiking Travel,63,Holiday Travel,29,Holland,1,Honeymoon Travel,135,Hong Kong,14,Hotels,71,Hungary,3,Iceland,44,Idaho,5,Ideas,11,Illinois,13,Independence Day Travel,1,India,39,Indiana,5,Indonesia,14,Iraq,1,Ireland,39,Island,59,islands,2,Israel,11,Italy,64,Jamaica,9,Japan,53,Jordan,6,Kansas,7,Kentucky,2,Kenya,3,Korea,2,Kyrgyzstan,1,Las Vegas,1,Latin America,3,Latvia,1,Lithuania,3,London,25,Louisiana,10,Lowa,4,Luxembourg,2,Luxury Travel,35,Maine,7,Malaysia,1,Maldives,20,Malta,3,Maryland,7,Massachusetts,12,Mauritius,6,Mexico,82,Miami,14,Michigan,6,Mississippi,2,Missouri,7,Moldova,1,Monaco,2,Mongolia,1,Montana,14,Morocco,21,Mother's Day Travel,1,Myanmar,9,Namibia,4,Nature,4,Nature Travel,104,Nepal,6,Netherlands,11,Nevada,26,Nevis,2,New England,6,New Hampshire,2,New Jersey,3,New Mexico,9,New Year's Day Travel,6,New York,60,New York City,25,New Zealand,51,Newfoundland,1,Nicaragua,2,North America,11,North Carolina,6,North Dakota,1,North Ireland,1,Northern Ireland,1,Norway,20,Occasional Travel,10,Oceania,1,Ohio,6,Oman,5,Oregon,11,Pakistan,4,Panama,7,Paraguay,1,Paris,26,Pennsylvania,11,Peru,24,Philippines,2,Phoenix,1,Photo Feature,1,Poland,4,Portugal,21,Prague,1,Puerto Rico,9,Qatar,6,Quebec,1,Resort,11,Rhode Island,2,River Travel,2,Road Trips,49,Romania,5,Romantic Getaways,16,Rome,6,Russia,17,Saint Lucia,1,Saint Patrick's Day Travel,1,San Miguel de Allende,1,Scotland,13,Seasonal,56,Seasonal Travel,60,Sightseeing Tours,2,Singapore,19,Ski Resorts,11,Slovenia,6,Solo Travel,25,Solomon Islands,1,Somoa,1,Soth Africa,1,South Africa,16,South America,6,South Carolina,5,South Dakota,7,South Korea,5,South Pacific,3,Space Travel,16,Spain,36,Special,24,Special Features,318,Spring Travel,24,Sri Lanka,8,Student Travel,1,Summer Travel,54,Summer Vacation,8,Sweden,20,Swiss Alps,1,Switzerland,23,Sydney,2,Tahiti,3,Taiwan,5,Tanzania,1,Tennessee,8,Texas,58,Thailand,38,Thanksgiving Travel,6,Things to Do,165,Tibet,2,Tips,120,Train Travel,24,Transportation,22,Travel,187,Travel Advice,64,Travel Apps,1,Travel Guide,39,Travel Tips,169,Tunisia,2,Turkey,12,Turkish,1,Tuscany,1,UAE,10,UK,41,Ukrine,1,Urban Travel,51,Uruguary,2,USA,644,Utah,17,Uzbekistan,2,Vacation Travel,279,Valentine's Day Travel,1,Vehicle Travel,2,Venezuela,1,Vermont,5,Victoria Falls,1,Vietnam,6,Virginia,8,Virtual Travel,1,Wales,2,Washington,15,Washington DC,20,Weddings Travel,5,West Indies,2,Wildlife Travel,14,Winter Travel,58,Wisconsin,6,Worldwide,161,Wyoming,4,xxx,1,Yemen,1,Zadar,2,Zambia,3,Zimbabwe,4,
ltr
item
Travel Magazine: Hawaii: Exploring the sea cliffs and sad stories of Molokai
Hawaii: Exploring the sea cliffs and sad stories of Molokai
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-pWTApTwYw/VwVO6nBfP6I/AAAAAAAA0kI/1MzFLAR_t4I_wbDqZEfPqj1LRIL11qf2g/s1600/Hawaii%2B01.jpg
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-pWTApTwYw/VwVO6nBfP6I/AAAAAAAA0kI/1MzFLAR_t4I_wbDqZEfPqj1LRIL11qf2g/s72-c/Hawaii%2B01.jpg
Travel Magazine
https://travel.dearjulius.com/2016/04/hawaii-exploring-sea-cliffs-and-sad.html
https://travel.dearjulius.com/
https://travel.dearjulius.com/
https://travel.dearjulius.com/2016/04/hawaii-exploring-sea-cliffs-and-sad.html
true
5866858605520326948
UTF-8
Loaded All Posts Not found any posts VIEW ALL Read More Reply Cancel reply Delete By Home PAGES POSTS View All RECOMMENDED FOR YOU LABEL ARCHIVE SEARCH ALL POSTS Not found any post match with your request Back Home Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat January February March April May June July August September October November December Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec just now 1 minute ago $$1$$ minutes ago 1 hour ago $$1$$ hours ago Yesterday $$1$$ days ago $$1$$ weeks ago more than 5 weeks ago Followers Follow THIS PREMIUM CONTENT IS LOCKED STEP 1: Share to a social network STEP 2: Click the link on your social network Copy All Code Select All Code All codes were copied to your clipboard Can not copy the codes / texts, please press [CTRL]+[C] (or CMD+C with Mac) to copy