By Bernd Biege
Ireland Travel Expert, about.com
One of Ireland's most important ancient places, the Hill of Tara (in Irish called Cnoc na Teamhrach, Teamhair, or most frequently Teamhair na RÃ, "Tara of the Kings") can be found less than four kilometres south-east of the River Boyne, between Navan and Dunshaughlin in County Meath. Basically it is a sprawling archaeological complex of ancient earthworks and more refined monuments that is traditionally held to be the seat of the High King of Ireland. And a generally "magical", "sacred" place - though much of this is up to individual belief systems and interpretation of the scarce hard facts that are known about Tara.
At First Glance - That's Tara?[post_ads_2]
The
first impression most visitors have is a winding, narrow country road,
then a car park (often more than crowded), some signs and ... something
very much reminiscent of a slightly unkempt and certainly challenging
golf course. With visitors meandering and milling about the place,
getting almost lost in a wide expanse of Irish countryside with a few
discernible ditches and hillocks here and there.
If you came looking for a Hibernian version of Camelot, you might as well leave now. Or just have a coffee.
Tara
is more a state of mind than a real, tangible attraction in the sense
of (once) huge erections of royal splendour. In fact, the only
immediately noticeable ancient erection would be the Lia Fáil. Which,
come to think of it, certainly has a phallic symbolism. But is less
splendid than more modern monuments to be found on the site. Being just a
stone, after all.
Let us have a look at what you can find on the
Hill of Tara, though you will have to explore and walk a bit. Staying in
the car park, or even in the churchyard (both are the extreme ends of
the prepared pathways) is no option.
The Ancient Monuments of Tara[post_ads_2]
If
you want to explore Tara, you will have to make your (at times
slippery, always uneven) way up to the summit of the hill. From here, it
is said at least, you are able to see no less than 25% of the Irish
mainland. On a clear day you will believe this, on many another day
it'll seem a very exaggerated claim. But it is not the view we came for,
is it?
At the summit you will also find an oval Iron Age hilltop enclosure, a massive "hill fort"
measuring no less than 318 metres from north to south, and an
impressive 264 metres from east to west. This is surrounded by an
internal ditch and an external bank, in military terms as useful as
nipples on a breastplate, and an indicator that this was a ceremonial
site only. Over the years it became known as the Fort of the Kings (Ráith na RÃogh),
or the Royal Enclosure. Within it are further earthworks, a ring fort
and a ring barrow with double ditches - they are known as Cormac's House
(Teach Chormaic) and the Royal Seat (Forradh).
[post_ads]Right in the middle of the Forradh you'll notice a solitary, almost organically formed standing stone. This is believed to be the Stone of Destiny (Lia Fáil),
the ancient crowning place of the High Kings. Legend has it that the
stone will scream (at a level to be heard all over Ireland) if touched
by the rightful king, who also had to meet (and successfully complete)
challenges before even being allowed within touching distance.
Just
north of this all, but still within the Royal Enclosure, you will also
find a rather modestly sized Neolithic passage tomb, this is known as
the Mound of the Hostages (Dumha na nGiall). Constructed around
3,400 BCE it has some fine carvings in the short passage, which is said
to be oriented towards the rising sun on Imbolc and Samhain.
Further north, outside the Ráith na RÃ,
is a ring-fort with no less than three banks, but partially destroyed
by the churchyard. This is known as the Rath of the Synods (Ráith na Seanadh).
Strangely enough one of the few places in Ireland where Imperial Roman
artefacts have been found. Not found here, despite the best efforts of
the slightly deluded British Israelites around 1900, was the Ark of the Covenant.
A
short distance north again you will just be able to make out a long,
narrow, almost rectangular earthwork, almost like a highway leading to
Tara. It is commonly called the Banqueting Hall (Teach Miodhchuarta),
There is no evidence that there ever was a hall here, so first
impressions might be bearer to the truth - it may have been a ceremonial
avenue approaching the main site.
Further earthworks like the
Sloping Trenches, Gráinne's Fort, and Laoghaire's Fort can be found at
the Hill of Tara, all are signposted. As is the Rath Maeve a few hundred
metres south, and a Holy Well you pass on the way there. There also is a
Wishing Tree, but that is another story.
The Church (and Visitor Centre)[post_ads_2]
The church on the Hill of Tara, dedicated to Saint Patrick,
is far from ancient ... and has been allowed to partially destroy the
ancient monuments. As it stands today, St. Patrick's was built in the
1820s, on a site that may have had a church since the 1190s. It once
belonged to the Knights Hospitallers of Saint John (Order of Malta in
modern parlance), so the theory with the Ark of the Covenant may well
have started in medieval times.
History could be said to come full
circle - the encroaching Christian church has long been disused, and
was then reactivated as a visitor centre by Heritage Ireland.
Here
a word of caution is in order: If you google for the Hill of Tara, you
may well find many sites that give opening times and an admission fee.
Both of these are only relevant to the visitor centre (which is strictly
optional, though recommended to quickly brush up on the background of
the Hill of Tara). The hill, with all its ancient monuments, is open
throughout the year, at any time, even at night.
Actually the best
time to visit would be outside the season and outside normal opening
hours - I recommend April (when most of the grass is fresh and the
ravages of tourism are not that obvious), or early October or November
mornings, to catch a sunrise in solitary splendour.
Basic Information on the Hill of Tara[post_ads_2]
Getting
to the Hill of Tara is not complicated - you'll find the access road
(signposted) south of Navan, westwards off the R147 (the old N3, which
also avoids motorway tolls).
If you are coming by motorway, leave the M3 at Junction 7 (signed for
Skryne/Johnstown), then turn south onto the R147. The local road
approaching the Hill of Tara is narrow and winding, take care here.
Parking is limited at the Hill, expect a bit of manoeuvring, and maybe a
short walk.
Access to the Hill of Tara is 24/7 through unlocked gates or over stiles.
Take
note that the Hill of Tara is a (more or less) natural landscape,
absolutely not suitable for wheelchairs or persons with a severe
mobility impairment. All others should wear stout shoes with good
(gripping) soles, and bring a walking stick if needed.
