By Geri Bain
about.com
Driving up the tree-lined lane to Wheatleigh's entry courtyard in
the Berkshire Mountains, we felt like we’d landed in Tuscany. We soon
learned that the resemblance was by design.
Built in 1893 by real
estate and railroad tycoon Henry H. Cook, Wheatleigh was created as a
wedding present for his daughter, who had married a European count.
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Inspired by the Berkshires’ rolling terrain, the architect designed the “summer cottage” in the style of a 16th
century Florentine palazzo, bringing in artisans from Italy to create
the intricately carved stone fireplace in the great room, the fountain
and other stone work around and inside the mansion.
The estate’s sculpture garden and grounds were laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted,
the landscape architect responsible for New York City’s Central Park.
The grand balconied main hall, which hosted its share of soirees during
the Gilded Age, is still furnished with original sculpture and art,
including Tiffany glass windows.
The ambience is so authentic that we half expected some Great Gatsby characters to waltz in.
Guest Rooms at Wheatleigh:
The feeling of privilege continued as guest services manager Mark Brown
showed us around our Junior Suite. Drawing back the floor-to-ceiling
curtains, we were thrilled to see that we had a private terrace and a
clear view of the back lawn and just beyond, a mountain-backed lake. The
views inside were equally pleasing.
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Decorated in subtle neutral
tones, the room had a large, now decorative fireplace set up with tall
candles. Fresh chocolate cookies, a Wheatleigh signature amenity, were
offered. Mark asked if we wanted still or sparkling water and then
returned with bottled water and a tray with a choice of deluxe bath
amenities including Bvlgari and Aromatherapy. But for us, the most romantic feature was an antique bathtub, big enough for two to comfortably soak in.
Dining at Wheatleigh: “I can’t believe that the Michelin folks haven’t discovered Wheatleigh yet,” says Salvatore Rizzo, owner/director of De Gustibus Cooking School by Miele.
We had come to Wheatleigh as part of a special De
Gustibus dining/cooking weekend that included a hands-on class with Chef
Jeffrey Thompson and multiple tasting menus.
Over the course of
the weekend, we sampled dozens of dishes. The first night, my husband
and I looked at the menu and began trying to make the hard decision
about which dishes we wanted. How silly we were; no decisions were
required; we were served tasting portions of each of the six starters,
seven main dishes and vegetables and three deserts. And so the weekend
went. Since table talk often revolved around the dish at hand, we truly
focused on and savored every bite. Amazingly, we always felt satisfied,
never stuffed, after our meals, nor did either of us gain an ounce from
this gourmet weekend. And we took home some great recipes and a few new
techniques.
Among the many highlights were succulent oxtail
appetizers, Dover sole with black truffle and an unforgettable
“Vacherin” with coconut parfait, exotic fruit and guava sorbet. Oh, and
the scrumptious wild Scottish langoustine
with carrot, fava bean and scarlet turnip! The inside dining room was
spacious and cozy at the same time, but our favorite dining spot was the
glass-enclosed portico. And we agreed with Salvatore; Wheatleigh
deserves a Michelin Star.
Destination Weddings at Wheatleigh:
We were surprised to learn that Wheatleigh only agrees to host about
ten to 12 weddings a year, partly because couples are encouraged to take
over the entire 19-room hotel for their wedding weekend. “We want to be
able to focus fully on each wedding,” says Marc Wilhelm, general
manager. The hotel can handle weddings of up to 100 in winter; 150 in
summer. “One of the most romantic wedding activities is watching the
stars while warming up around our fire table. In winter, we put out an
ice bar and there’s sledding down our hill. In summer, late-night pool
parties are very popular,” he says. Ceremonies are often held on the
expansive upper terrace overlooking the valley or, for a more intimate
feeling, in the sculpture garden.
Activities at Wheatleigh:
Most guests come to enjoy the cuisine and explore the area so this
isn’t a place that pushes activities. A small fitness room is tucked
downstairs, an oval heated pool is hidden in the woods and tall trees
shade the hotel’s single tennis court. Guests also have access to the
Stockbridge Golf Club, five miles away, where keeping the balls out of
the Housatonic River is part of the challenge. There is a small
single-table massage room next to the fitness room, but in-room
massages—for one or two—are much more popular. And on the weekend we
were there, the hotel had arranged for a hot air balloon to take a
couple on a ride over the Berkshires.
Nearby Wheatleigh: One morning we went for a before-breakfast walk around Lenox, a few minutes’ drive from the hotel. Lenox is also home to Tanglewood,
summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra. Summer also brings top
performers to Jacob’s Pillow, the Berkshire Theatre Festival and
Shakespeare & Company theaters. Traditional art lovers will enjoy
visiting the Norman Rockwell Museum, and then strolling through
Stockbridge, which still looks much as it did when the artist painted
it.
Pros/Cons of Wheatleigh: It took us a while
to figure out what felt so different here from other manor house style
hotels. Then we realized that there were no guests walking through the
lobby to get to the spa or racing out to catch an aquacize class. For
some, not having an indoor pool, Jacuzzi or a full-service spa and showy
fitness center might feel like deprivation, but guests we spoke with
said there was plenty to do in the area and they appreciated the
tranquility.
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“Real luxury isn’t having a telephone next to the
toilet or seven jams for breakfast; it’s having one jam, but a truly
amazing one; it’s the perfection of simplicity,” says Wilhelm.
Nevertheless, the only thing we really missed was having a coffee maker
in the room. There’s 24-hour room service, but first thing in the
morning, we would have preferred to make our own.
Wheatleigh Vibe:
The quiet sophistication of Wheatleigh makes it a natural retreat for
serenity-loving couples of all ages. It’s not a place for rambunctious
kids—or adults. The few kids we saw during the weekend while we were
there were the advance party for a future wedding, and they seemed to
understand that this was not a place to play tag on the terrace.
