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Tourists often, and understandably, have reservations about visiting Kashmir. After all, this picturesque region is prone to civil unrest
and violence. It's been declared off-limits to tourists on a number of
occasions. There have also been a few isolated incidents, with Srinagar
and other parts of the Kashmir Valley being temporarily shutdown.
However, tourists always begin returning after peace is restored.
So, is it safe to travel to Kashmir?
Understanding the Problem in Kashmir
Prior
to the partitioning of India in 1947 (when British India was divided
into India and Pakistan along religious lines, as part of the
independence process) Kashmir was a "princely state" with its own ruler.
Although the king was Hindu, most of his subjects were Muslim and he
wanted to remain neutral. However, he was eventually persuaded to accede
to India, giving control to the Indian government in return for
military assistance to deal with invading Pakistanis.
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Many people in Kashmir aren't happy about being governed by India
though. The region has a predominantly Muslim population, and they'd
rather be independent or be part of Pakistan. Due to its location,
mountainous Kashmir is of strategic importance to India, and a number of
wars have been fought over its border.
By the late 1980s,
dissatisfaction had increased greatly due to issues in the democratic
process and erosion of Kashmir's autonomy. Many of the democratic
reforms introduced by the Indian government had been reversed. Militancy
and insurgency grew in the uprising for freedom, with violence and
unrest peaking in the early 1990s. It's said that Kashmir is the most
densely militarized place on earth, with more than 500,000 Indian troops
estimated to be deployed to counter any incidents. To complicate the
situation, there are accusations of human rights violations being
committed by the armed Indian forces.
The most recent situation,
known as the Burhan aftermath, arose in July 2016 followed the killing
of militant commander Burhan Wani (leader of a Kashmiri separatist
group) by Indian security forces. The killing provoked a series of
violent protests and clashes in the Kashmir Valley, and the
implementation of a curfew to maintain law and order.
How this Affects Tourists Visiting Kashmir
The
substantial presence of military in Kashmir can be unnerving for
tourists. However, it's important to keep in mind that Kashmiris have
problems with the Indian administration, not with the people of India or
anyone else. Even the separatists have nothing against tourists.
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Tourists
in Kashmir have never been deliberately targeted or harmed. Instead,
angry protestors have actually given tourist vehicles safe passage. In
general, Kashmiris are hospitable people, and tourism is an important
industry and source of income for them. Hence, they will go out of their
way to make sure visitors are safe.
The only time that travel to
Kashmir is not recommended is when there is tense conflict in the region
and travel advisories are issued. Although tourists are unlikely to be
hurt, the disturbances and curfews are very disruptive.
Behavior of Tourists in Kashmir
Anyone
who visits Kashmir should keep in mind that the people there have
suffered a lot, and should be treated respectfully. In keeping with
local culture, women must also take care to dress conservatively, so as
not to risk causing offense. This means covering up, and not wearing
mini-skirts or shorts!
My Personal Experience in Kashmir
I visited Kashmir (both Srinagar and the Kashmir Valley) in late 2013. There was a disturbance
less than a month beforehand, with militants opening fire on a convoy
of security forces in Srinagar. Admittedly, it did make me uneasy about
going there (and worried my parents). However, everyone I spoke to,
including people who had recently visited Srinagar, advised me not to
worry. They told me to still go, and I'm very glad I did!
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The only
indications that I saw of the issues plaguing Kashmir were the
pervasive police and army presence in Srinagar and the Kashmir Valley,
and the added security procedures at Srinagar airport. I didn't
experience anything to give me any cause for concern.
Kashmir is a
predominantly Muslim area, and I found the people to be particularly
warm, friendly, respectful, and polite. Even when I was walking through
Srinagar's Old City, I was surprised by how little I was harassed -- a
huge contrast to many other places in India. It was very easy to fall in
love with Kashmir and to want to return again soon.
It seems that
many other people feel the same way, as there were plenty of tourists
in Kashmir, particularly domestic Indian tourists. I'm told that it's
almost impossible to get a room on a houseboat on Nigeen Lake in Srinagar during peak season. It wouldn't surprise me at all, as it's absolutely blissful there.
