By Rory Boland
Hong Kong/Macau Travel Expert, about.com
With its laid back village character and the electric atmosphere at
the horseracing, Happy Valley is well worth an afternoon of your time.
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Once
little more than a malarial swamp when the British first arrived, Happy
Valley’s was cut and cleared to make space for what remains its
defining attraction – the Hong Kong racecourse. Over time the district
has grown into one of the grandest residential areas in Hong Kong – with
swanky restaurants and cracking British pubs.
What to see
Whether you think Happy Valley is more miss than hit, you have to take time to see the Happy Valley races.
The late night races here, set amidst a ring of skyscrapers and a
roaring crowd, are an unforgettable experience. While it’s the manic
crowd (as well as the quality races) that are the real attraction, you
can also enjoy cut price al fresco beers trackside. Races are Wednesday
nights in season and it’s just a few dollars to gain entry. Do leave
plenty of time to reach the stadium because transport and roads can be
clogged.
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Beyond the racecourse there isn’t a great deal to see in Happy Valley
(The Horse Racing Museum is for enthusiasts only). For those with
history on their mind Hong Kong Cemetery is the city’s oldest and well
worth seeing. There are thousands of gravestones set into the hillside,
many of them dating back to the founding of the colony. Robert Ho Tung
and Sir Paul Chater are just a couple of Hong Kong luminaries buried
here, while there are whole sections dedicated to Royal Navy sailors,
soldiers and airmen.
Where to eat
With
plenty of fat walleted residents, Happy Valley has plenty of options for
some grub. Few places are more aimed at the local platinum card crowd
than swanky Amigos (79A, Wong Nai Chung Road). This institution has been
serving up top notch French cooking at top notch prices since the
1960s. One of Hong Kong’s oldest western restaurants, the serving staff
still come buttoned up like penguins and the tablecloths are starched to
within an inch of their life. Beyond the fantastic food, it’s a truly
brilliant experience…if you can stump up the cash. Expect to have you
shirt and shoes checked on entry.
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For something more modest but
food that’s just as good, try Pang’s Kitchen (25 Yik Yam Street) and
their excellent Cantonese food. Little more than a hole in the wall, the
salt and pepper squid, sesame coated shrimp and sweet and sour pork
have won this family run restaurant a Michelin star. Booking is an
absolute must.
Half coffee shop and half bistro, Classified (13
Yuk Sau Street) does laid back neighbourhood dining fantastically.
Amidst dark woods and plenty of open space you can get your hands on a
full English fry up, some very decent pasta dishes and tasty line up of
smoothies.
Where to drink[post_ads_2]
With a large
expat population, Happy Valley has a couple of brilliant British pubs.
Perhaps the pick of the bunch is the busy Jockey (33 Wong Nai Chung
Road). Sat on Happy Valley’s busiest intersection, it’s a fantastic spot
for watching the world go by on the crowd of al fresco seats. There are
British classics, like Shepherds Pie, on the menu and ales and stouts
from the bar. On race nights there is a fantastic buzz.
How to get to Happy Valley
Part of Happy Valley’s appeal is the village like atmosphere, but that’s a result of of having no MTR metro. Instead you’ll need to take the tram
from the north shore of Hong Kong Island. Look for those with Happy
Valley on the front of the tram – they run every few minutes.
